Weston Woollies - A cabled hat and scarf pattern

This is a hat and scarf created as a Christmas gift for my friend Miss Weston, hence the name, Weston Woollies, she is very much a hat, scarf and mittens girl in the Winter. 

You will need six balls to make the scarf (4 and three quarters) and hat (1 and a quarter) of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino or equivalent, a pair of 3.25 needles for the scarf, a set of 3.25 DPNs and a medium size cable needle


Terms and abbreviations can be found at the bottom of the post and although this not a difficult set to knit, you will need to be able to read a pattern and be more than a beginning knitter.  When knitting the scarf and coming to the end of your ball of yarn, always start a new ball at the beginning of the row so that you can sew the ends in neatly... although this is obviously going to be impossible with our hat in the round!


Let's get started...


The Hat

Cast on  129 stitches, with 32 stitches on each needle and 33 on the final needle, remember to make sure when you join your work together that the stitches are not twisted.  If you leave a long tail as you cast on, it serves as a marker for where you have started your work.
Row 1 - Bring the final stitch on needle 4 over to needle 1 and knit them together as this gives you a lovely neat edge, now K1, then [P2, K2] until the final two stitches and P2. 


Row 2 - K2, P2 until the end of the row.


Continue to work in Double Rib until you have worked 10 rows in total

Row 11 - K2, [P12, K4,] seven times, P12, K2
Row 12 - T3L, P10, T3R, eight times
Row 13 - P1, [K2, P10, K2, P2] seven times P10, K2, P1
Row 14 - P1, [T3L P8, T3R, P2] seven times T3L, P8, T3R P1
Row 15 - P2 [K2, P8, K2, P4] seven times, K2, P8, K2, P2
Row 16 - P2 [T3L, P6, T3R, P4] seven times T3L, P6, T3R, P2
Row 17 - P3 [K2, P6, K2, P6] seven times K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 18 - P3 [T3L, P4, T3R, P6] seven times T3L, P4, T3R, P3
Row 19 - P4 [K2 P4, K2, P8] seven times K2, P4, K2, P4
Row 20 - P4 [ T3L, P2, T3R, P8] seven times T3L, P2,  T3R, P4
Row 21 - P5 [K2, P2, K2, P10] seven times K2, P2, K2, P5
Row 22 - P5 [T3L, T3R, P10] seven times T3L, T3R, P5
Row 23 - MB, P5 [K4, P6 MB, P5] seven times, K4, P6


Row 24 - P5, [T3R, T3L, P10 ] even times T3R, T3L P5
Row 25 - P5, [K2, P2, K2, P10] seven times, K2, P2, K2, P5
Row 26 - P4, [T3R, P2, T3L, P8] Seven times, T3R, P4, T3L P4
Row 27 - P4 [K2, P4, K2, P8] seven times, K2, P4, K2, P4
Row 28 - P3, [T3R, P4, T3L P6] seven times T3R, P6, T3L P3
Row 29 - P3, [K2, P6, K2, P6] seven times K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 30 - P2, [T3R, P6, T3L P4] seven times T3R, P6, T3L P2
Row 31 - P2, [K2, P8, K2, P2] seven times K2, P8, K2, P2
Row 32 - P1, [T3R, P8, T3L P2] seven times T3L P8, T3L P1
Row 33 - P1 [K2 P10, K2, P2] seven times K2, P10, K2, P1
Row 34 - [T3R, P10,T3L] eight times
Row 35 - [K2, P6, MB, P5, K2] eight times


Row 36 - T3L, P10, T3R, eight times
Row 37 - P1, [K2, P10, K2, P2] seven times P10, K2, P1
Row 38 - P1, [T3L P8, T3R, P2] seven times T3L, P8, T3R P1
Row 39 - P2 [K2, P8, K2, P4] seven times, K2, P8, K2, P2
Row 40 - P2 [T3L, P6, T3R, P4] seven times T3L, P6, T3R, P2
Row 41 - P3 [K2, P6, K2, P6] seven times K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 42 - P3 [T3L, P4, T3R, P6] seven times T3L, P4, T3R, P3
Row 43 - P4 [K2 P4, K2, P8] seven times K2, P4, K2, P4
Row 44 - P4 [ T3L, P2, T3R, P8] seven times T3L, P2,  T3R, P4
Row 45 - P5 [K2, P2, K2, P10] seven times K2, P2, K2, P5
Row 46 - P5 [T3L, T3R, P10] seven times T3L, T3R, P5
Row 47 - MB, P5 [K4, P6 MB, P5] seven times, K4, P6

Shape crown
Row 48 - K14, K2 tog, to the end of the row (120 stitches)
Row 49/50 - K 2 rows
Row 51 - K10, K2 tog to the end of the row (110 stitches)
K1 row
K9, K2 tog to the end of the row (100 stitches)
K1 row
K8, K2 tog to the end of the row (90 stitches)
K1 row
K7, K2 tog to the end of the row (80 stitches)
K1 row
K6, K2 tog to the end of the row (70 stitches)
K1 row
K5, K2 tog to the end of the row (60 stitches)
K1 row
K4, K2 tog to the end of the row (50 stitches)
K1 row
K3, K2 tog to the end of the row (40 stitches)
K1 row
K2,  K2 tog to the end of the row (30 stitches)
K1 row
K1, K2 tog to the end of the row (20 stitches)
K1 row
K2 tog to the end of the row (10 stitches)
K2 tog to the end of the row (5 stitches)

Cut your wool and thread it through the remaining five stitches to gather them up, sew the loose tail securely inside your hat and sew in the other tail into the rib.


If you want to make a longer hat repeat rows 24 to 35.


The Scarf

The scarf is worked in Irish moss/seed stitch, cable and diamond cable with bobbles worked over a 12 row repeat.  The first four stitches form the Irish moss, the next eight are the cable worked over eight stitches with a one stitch trench on each side and for the centre panel it is two diamond cables using two stitches worked over 28 stitches (utilising the purl trench from the cable) and the bobbles, which you will be so miffed with by the time you have finished!

Cast on 52 stitches
Row 1 - K2, P2 repeat to the end of the row
Row 2 - K2, P2 repeat to the end of the row
Work in this double rib for another 8 rows - 10 rows in total.


Row 11 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, C3F, P6, K4, P10, K4, P6, C3B, P1, K1. P1, K1, P1
Row 12 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K6, P4, K10, P4, K6, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1
These two rows will set the pattern for you

Row 13 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P5, T3R and T3L, P8, T3R and T3L, P5, K6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 14 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K5, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K5, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 15 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P4,T3R, P2, T3L, P6, T3R, P2, T3L, P4, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 16 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1,  P6, K4, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K4, P6,  K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 17 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P3, T3R, P4, T3L, P4, T3R, P4, T3L, P3, K6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 18 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K3, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K3, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 19 -  K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P2, T3R, P6, T3L, P2, T3R, P6, T3L, P2, K6,  P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 20 -  K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 21 -  P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, C3F, P1, T3R, P4, MB, P3 T3L, T3R, P4, MB, P3 T3L,P1, C3B, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 22 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K1, P2, K10, P4, K10, P2, K1, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 23 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P1, T3L, P8, T3R, T3L, P8, T3R, P1, K6,  P1, K1. P1, K1, P1

Row 24 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 25 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P2, T3L, P6, T3R, P2, T3L, P6, T3R, P2, K6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 26 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1,  P6, K3, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K3, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 27 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P3, T3L, P4, T3R, P4, T3L, P4, T3R, P3, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 28 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K4, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K4, P6  K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 29 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P4, T3L, P2, T3R, P6, T3L, P2, T3R, P4, k6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 30 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K5, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K5, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 31 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, C3F, P5, T3L,T3R, P4, MB, P3, T3L, T3R, P5, C3B, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 32 -  K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K6, P4, K10, P4, K6, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Rows to 13 to 32 form your pattern, repeat until the scarf is the length you require.

Knit until your work measures approx 70" End on either Row 22 or Row 32 - do not make a bobble on Row 21 or 31 - then work 10 rows of double rib with which you started the scarf.

Cast off and sew in your loose ends.

Abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

C3F - Slip next three stitches onto the cable needle and place at the front of work, knit three stitches, then knit the three stitches from your cable needle

C3B -  Slip next three stitches onto the cable needle and place at the back of work, knit three stitches, then knit the three stitches from your cable needle

T3L - Slip next two stitches onto your cable needle and place at front of work, purl 1 then knit two stitches from your cable needle

T3R - Slip one stitch onto cable needle, place at back of your work, knit next two stitches then purl the stitch from your cable needle

MB - Make bobble - Make five stitches in one stitch as follows (knit the stitch in the front loop and knit in the back of the loop without slipping it from the left needle, repeat this and the knit in the front loop again.  Turn the work and purl across the five stitches, turn again, knit the five stitches, turn again, purl across the five stitches. With right side facing, pull second, third, fourth and fifth stitch over the first stitch. Slip bobble stitch onto right hand needle.

 And finally, it is week 50 for Handmade Monday, so take a look at what everyone has been doing this week.

Forty years on...

Well this is just half a HandMade Monday, the other sock will be finished during the week.  I don't know if you have ever made socks before but there is a great feeling of satisfaction when you turn a heel or finish off toes with a spot of kitchener stitching.  These were made with Austerman wool with extra Aloe Vera which means my hands are feeling rather good right now and if you need a copy of the pattern you can find it on Ravelry

And now for some really exciting news, I heard from Sasha Kagan following my last blog and the great news is that she is bringing out a new book.  

" My new book “The Classic Collection” has just been published by GMC, this is my 7^th pattern book and it takes an overview of my design career from 1969 to 2009 with 5 patterns from each decade. This book has been written to coincide with my retrospective exhibition “My Life in Textiles- 4 Decades of Hand knit Design” details of venues are on my websitewww.sashakagan.co.uk "


Not only is there a travelling exhibition this year but also a number of workshops and masterclasses, so do take a look at her website and more news of Sasha at the end of this blog.


So I wondered if I had a piece of knitting from each decade of  the last 40 years... and here they are... be warned they are not all pretty!

The first from the 1970s is an Aran Cardigan which I made when I was 11, I don't think it bears close inspection but I did make it all myself, which means every time my mum corrected it, I ripped it back to the point where I had gone wrong - I was a horrid child!

Next from the 1980s, we have a mohair and cable combo, I loved this jumper because of its construction, the bottom cream part is not cast off but sewn onto the cable panel.

Now we hit the 1990s, jumpers were cropped, even when you cabled them and this had such a snuggly neck line... but I somehow don't think my kidneys ever felt the benefit!

And finally into the 2000s, I loved this cardigan but I have never found the right buttons, butIi do still have a ball of wool left over to sew them on when they do appear!  Sometimes I think that this cardie should have been in blue rather than pink for the number of times I go the lace pattern wrong and swore at it.

Now, I have no ideas what the 2010s hold in store, but I do think that Sasha's Scotties may finally make it onto my needles (they are in the new book) but perhaps I will ask her for a suggestion.  That's right, Sasha Kagan has agreed to do an interview on my blog, so I thought I would ask if any of you have a question for her that I could include in the interview?  Pop the question into the comments and I will try to use as many as possible.


PS.  Look out for the cushion tutorial coming later this week :)

Cables are back (again!)

I started knitting when I was about five and my earliest memories of my mum knitting was her working on a moss green Aran sweater for my dad... it was the size of a small marquee, made amid much tutting and with the cable needle clutched between pursed lips... it took forever to be finished.  However it was the start of a love affair with  cables for my mum viz the amazing pile of Aran knits we found squirrelled away when she died.

I started my first Aran when I was about 10 and finished it two years later and have not stopped since... below are a couple of scarves which I made as Xmas presents for friends

Pistacchio cable scarf knitted across 24 stitches, simple cable with a moss stitch central pattern

Reversible cable worked on rib stitches

My sister very kindly lets me read her copies of the Knitter magazine and Issue 27 has some fab info on the history of cabling in the UK, especially in the fishing fleets and has some gorgeous up to date patterns.

http://www.theknitter.co.uk/category/magazine/

So get your chunky wool out and start to invent  your own cabling patterns!