This way lies madness...

You need to know this about me, I am a competent knitter, honestly I really am.  In fact just to build myself up a tad, even Jo at one of our LYS said that my Kitchener stitch on the socks I made last week is exemplary.

So when I saw the new Debbie Bliss Rialto Lace book, I knew it was for me, nothing took more than four balls and I can do lace, I mean I have done it before… successfully.  But hey it's been a couple of years so, best to start small I thought and descended on this lovely little collar.

Do not be deceived by this evil piece of knit wear… OK so maybe starting it on the train was not a great move… nor perhaps continuing in the back of a London taxi whose driver was only satisfied when he found each and every cobbled street left in the City.  I feel this explains why I had to frag (for you none knitters… this is heartlessly ripping it back to where you made the mistake) it back three times on Monday, but I do have perseverance in spades.  Then I got as far as two pointy bits of the collar and then I mucked it up again.

I have started yet again, I will not be beaten, I will win… and you will get updates, whether you want them or not… the pain will be shared!

So if you see a woman on the 07:20 to Fenchurch Street, who seems to be moving her lips in prayer, look kindly upon her, especially if she sighs deeply and starts to frag back, once again...

Weston Woollies - A cabled hat and scarf pattern

This is a hat and scarf created as a Christmas gift for my friend Miss Weston, hence the name, Weston Woollies, she is very much a hat, scarf and mittens girl in the Winter. 

You will need six balls to make the scarf (4 and three quarters) and hat (1 and a quarter) of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino or equivalent, a pair of 3.25 needles for the scarf, a set of 3.25 DPNs and a medium size cable needle


Terms and abbreviations can be found at the bottom of the post and although this not a difficult set to knit, you will need to be able to read a pattern and be more than a beginning knitter.  When knitting the scarf and coming to the end of your ball of yarn, always start a new ball at the beginning of the row so that you can sew the ends in neatly... although this is obviously going to be impossible with our hat in the round!


Let's get started...


The Hat

Cast on  129 stitches, with 32 stitches on each needle and 33 on the final needle, remember to make sure when you join your work together that the stitches are not twisted.  If you leave a long tail as you cast on, it serves as a marker for where you have started your work.
Row 1 - Bring the final stitch on needle 4 over to needle 1 and knit them together as this gives you a lovely neat edge, now K1, then [P2, K2] until the final two stitches and P2. 


Row 2 - K2, P2 until the end of the row.


Continue to work in Double Rib until you have worked 10 rows in total

Row 11 - K2, [P12, K4,] seven times, P12, K2
Row 12 - T3L, P10, T3R, eight times
Row 13 - P1, [K2, P10, K2, P2] seven times P10, K2, P1
Row 14 - P1, [T3L P8, T3R, P2] seven times T3L, P8, T3R P1
Row 15 - P2 [K2, P8, K2, P4] seven times, K2, P8, K2, P2
Row 16 - P2 [T3L, P6, T3R, P4] seven times T3L, P6, T3R, P2
Row 17 - P3 [K2, P6, K2, P6] seven times K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 18 - P3 [T3L, P4, T3R, P6] seven times T3L, P4, T3R, P3
Row 19 - P4 [K2 P4, K2, P8] seven times K2, P4, K2, P4
Row 20 - P4 [ T3L, P2, T3R, P8] seven times T3L, P2,  T3R, P4
Row 21 - P5 [K2, P2, K2, P10] seven times K2, P2, K2, P5
Row 22 - P5 [T3L, T3R, P10] seven times T3L, T3R, P5
Row 23 - MB, P5 [K4, P6 MB, P5] seven times, K4, P6


Row 24 - P5, [T3R, T3L, P10 ] even times T3R, T3L P5
Row 25 - P5, [K2, P2, K2, P10] seven times, K2, P2, K2, P5
Row 26 - P4, [T3R, P2, T3L, P8] Seven times, T3R, P4, T3L P4
Row 27 - P4 [K2, P4, K2, P8] seven times, K2, P4, K2, P4
Row 28 - P3, [T3R, P4, T3L P6] seven times T3R, P6, T3L P3
Row 29 - P3, [K2, P6, K2, P6] seven times K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 30 - P2, [T3R, P6, T3L P4] seven times T3R, P6, T3L P2
Row 31 - P2, [K2, P8, K2, P2] seven times K2, P8, K2, P2
Row 32 - P1, [T3R, P8, T3L P2] seven times T3L P8, T3L P1
Row 33 - P1 [K2 P10, K2, P2] seven times K2, P10, K2, P1
Row 34 - [T3R, P10,T3L] eight times
Row 35 - [K2, P6, MB, P5, K2] eight times


Row 36 - T3L, P10, T3R, eight times
Row 37 - P1, [K2, P10, K2, P2] seven times P10, K2, P1
Row 38 - P1, [T3L P8, T3R, P2] seven times T3L, P8, T3R P1
Row 39 - P2 [K2, P8, K2, P4] seven times, K2, P8, K2, P2
Row 40 - P2 [T3L, P6, T3R, P4] seven times T3L, P6, T3R, P2
Row 41 - P3 [K2, P6, K2, P6] seven times K2, P6, K2, P3
Row 42 - P3 [T3L, P4, T3R, P6] seven times T3L, P4, T3R, P3
Row 43 - P4 [K2 P4, K2, P8] seven times K2, P4, K2, P4
Row 44 - P4 [ T3L, P2, T3R, P8] seven times T3L, P2,  T3R, P4
Row 45 - P5 [K2, P2, K2, P10] seven times K2, P2, K2, P5
Row 46 - P5 [T3L, T3R, P10] seven times T3L, T3R, P5
Row 47 - MB, P5 [K4, P6 MB, P5] seven times, K4, P6

Shape crown
Row 48 - K14, K2 tog, to the end of the row (120 stitches)
Row 49/50 - K 2 rows
Row 51 - K10, K2 tog to the end of the row (110 stitches)
K1 row
K9, K2 tog to the end of the row (100 stitches)
K1 row
K8, K2 tog to the end of the row (90 stitches)
K1 row
K7, K2 tog to the end of the row (80 stitches)
K1 row
K6, K2 tog to the end of the row (70 stitches)
K1 row
K5, K2 tog to the end of the row (60 stitches)
K1 row
K4, K2 tog to the end of the row (50 stitches)
K1 row
K3, K2 tog to the end of the row (40 stitches)
K1 row
K2,  K2 tog to the end of the row (30 stitches)
K1 row
K1, K2 tog to the end of the row (20 stitches)
K1 row
K2 tog to the end of the row (10 stitches)
K2 tog to the end of the row (5 stitches)

Cut your wool and thread it through the remaining five stitches to gather them up, sew the loose tail securely inside your hat and sew in the other tail into the rib.


If you want to make a longer hat repeat rows 24 to 35.


The Scarf

The scarf is worked in Irish moss/seed stitch, cable and diamond cable with bobbles worked over a 12 row repeat.  The first four stitches form the Irish moss, the next eight are the cable worked over eight stitches with a one stitch trench on each side and for the centre panel it is two diamond cables using two stitches worked over 28 stitches (utilising the purl trench from the cable) and the bobbles, which you will be so miffed with by the time you have finished!

Cast on 52 stitches
Row 1 - K2, P2 repeat to the end of the row
Row 2 - K2, P2 repeat to the end of the row
Work in this double rib for another 8 rows - 10 rows in total.


Row 11 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, C3F, P6, K4, P10, K4, P6, C3B, P1, K1. P1, K1, P1
Row 12 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K6, P4, K10, P4, K6, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1
These two rows will set the pattern for you

Row 13 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P5, T3R and T3L, P8, T3R and T3L, P5, K6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 14 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K5, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K5, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 15 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P4,T3R, P2, T3L, P6, T3R, P2, T3L, P4, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 16 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1,  P6, K4, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K4, P6,  K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 17 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P3, T3R, P4, T3L, P4, T3R, P4, T3L, P3, K6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 18 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K3, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K3, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 19 -  K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P2, T3R, P6, T3L, P2, T3R, P6, T3L, P2, K6,  P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 20 -  K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 21 -  P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, C3F, P1, T3R, P4, MB, P3 T3L, T3R, P4, MB, P3 T3L,P1, C3B, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 22 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K1, P2, K10, P4, K10, P2, K1, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 23 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P1, T3L, P8, T3R, T3L, P8, T3R, P1, K6,  P1, K1. P1, K1, P1

Row 24 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 25 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P2, T3L, P6, T3R, P2, T3L, P6, T3R, P2, K6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 26 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1,  P6, K3, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K3, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 27 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, K6, P3, T3L, P4, T3R, P4, T3L, P4, T3R, P3, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 28 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K4, P2, K4, P2, K6, P2, K4, P2, K4, P6  K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 29 - P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P4, T3L, P2, T3R, P6, T3L, P2, T3R, P4, k6, P1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 30 - P1, K1, P1, K1, K1, P6, K5, P2, K2, P2, K8, P2, K2, P2, K5, P6, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 31 - K1, P1, K1, P1, P1, C3F, P5, T3L,T3R, P4, MB, P3, T3L, T3R, P5, C3B, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Row 32 -  K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P6, K6, P4, K10, P4, K6, P6, K1, K1, P1, K1, P1

Rows to 13 to 32 form your pattern, repeat until the scarf is the length you require.

Knit until your work measures approx 70" End on either Row 22 or Row 32 - do not make a bobble on Row 21 or 31 - then work 10 rows of double rib with which you started the scarf.

Cast off and sew in your loose ends.

Abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

C3F - Slip next three stitches onto the cable needle and place at the front of work, knit three stitches, then knit the three stitches from your cable needle

C3B -  Slip next three stitches onto the cable needle and place at the back of work, knit three stitches, then knit the three stitches from your cable needle

T3L - Slip next two stitches onto your cable needle and place at front of work, purl 1 then knit two stitches from your cable needle

T3R - Slip one stitch onto cable needle, place at back of your work, knit next two stitches then purl the stitch from your cable needle

MB - Make bobble - Make five stitches in one stitch as follows (knit the stitch in the front loop and knit in the back of the loop without slipping it from the left needle, repeat this and the knit in the front loop again.  Turn the work and purl across the five stitches, turn again, knit the five stitches, turn again, purl across the five stitches. With right side facing, pull second, third, fourth and fifth stitch over the first stitch. Slip bobble stitch onto right hand needle.

 And finally, it is week 50 for Handmade Monday, so take a look at what everyone has been doing this week.

Roll on 2012 - The first tutorial of 2012

Well, Happy New Year everyone!  Just wanted to welcome all the new readers and to thank my old readers for coming back, what kept you all... we have loads to make this year, so let's get started.


Right, ladies and gentlemen, here is the first tutorial of 2012 and this is a purely selfish one with a practical purpose.  You may have noticed that last year I discovered that I had been lied to, sock knitting is not difficult, you do not need lots of little markers and actually although I say so myself, I make a jolly good fist of it but it has created a problem, where do I store all the DPNs (double pointed needles... the ones I like to use on the train to get a double seat as they look quite scary) and my circular needles?  Now if the thought of making a needle storage roll is making you yawn, then remember that it can also be used to store make up/paint brushes, crochet hooks and coloured pencils for children and yes, Marion - we are starting on the contents of your Summer fete stall right here.

You will need:
Two lots of fabric, I am using ticking and cotton - 13" x 11" for the main and 7" x 11" for the contrast
Wadding (if you are making a pencil roll you can leave this out but I want to protect my needles)
Cotton
Scissors
Tape measure or rule
Pins
Contrasting tape
Sewing machine
Iron and Ironing Board (well we are using fabric, so you knew it was coming)
Chopstick (pointy variety)

Firstly iron your fabric, as I am using a cotton ticking I will be cutting it out with pinking shears as you will remember that ticking is in training for the Olympic 100m and will start to run even before the starter fires his gun, you need two pieces 13" height  x 11" width and a piece of wadding cut to the same dimensions.  If you are working with longer needles or shorter pencils adjust the height accordingly.


Now take your contrasting well behaved cotton and cut out a piece 7" height x 11" width.

Fold over the top of your fabric using your 5/8" seam allowance, iron it firmly... now you can either do a simple running stitch or you can use an embroidery stitch to lift the fabric, if like me you are using a plain contrast.  Obviously it would not work with a floral pattern as the stitches would get lost. 


Now place your ticking face up (right side up) and place the contrast fabric on top, right side up and pin the contrasting fabric in place along the lower edge.


Taking out your tape measure or rule, mark an inch away from your 5/8" seam allowance with a pin or a fabric marking pen at the top and the bottom, repeat this every inch until you come to the right hand edge.  Now if you are confident, go ahead and sew a straight line down as this will make the casement for your items to sit in.

If you are still taming your sewing machine then we will baste or tack the fabrics together.  Using a contrasting cotton, double it and tie a large knot in the end and sew a line of running stitches from the top to the bottom, do not sew the end in when you finish but leave a tail of a couple of inches - these stitches do not have to be small or elegant; tacking/basting usually uses a longer running stitch they are used to hold fabrics together until you machine them in place.  When you have sewn everything in place, go to the knot end of your tacking and pull gently and this will remove the tacking, sometimes it does get caught up with your stitching so just tug gently until it comes out.

For my circular needles I am going to add a little more security - circular needles would have been put in Colditz Castle in WWII as they are great escapologists - so taking the tape, place it 2" above the top seam and catch it every inch, running in line with the seams you have just created, as we are going to use these loops to wrap our circs around whilst they are resting.


Now pin the wadding to the back of this piece and sew it in place with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Now with right sides facing each other, pin the fabric together.  Starting at the top six inches from the right hand side sew a 5/8" seam all the way around but stop four inches short of where you started.  

Cut across each corner and trim the excess seam, now turn your roll inside out and poke the corners with your chopstick and tease the corners out to make a good point.


Iron the roll flat and tuck in the open seam and pin it shut.  Finally, cut about of tape and fold it in half lengthwise, with the outside of your roll in front of you, on either the left or right hand side pin the tape half way down.  Now using your sewing machine foot, so that the thin side of your foot sits on the edge, sew around the roll again... use either a running stitch or show off again with an embroidery stitch.


Now fill it with your needles, brushes or pencils... and wonder why on earth you stored your needles in an old chocolate box, large glass vase or tool box?

And now it is confession time, remember how I tell you when measuring, to measure twice and cut once... well here is the proof that it is good to take your own advice.

Yes, I managed to cut it a good inch short and did not notice until I went to piece it together... I do hope that this is not a portent of things to come...

What RosMadeMe does next?

I have been sitting here this morning planning what to do with the blog  moving forward into 2012 and thinking about how much I have enjoyed writing the tutorials especially leading up to Christmas.

So I have decided to continue to do tutorials every week during the next year for all the major holidays and special occasions which happen in the UK, the US and Canada and all points East and West.  My plan is to start posting up these up from about a month before the big occasion in order that you get enough time to complete them.


I am going to fill the gaps between the big occasions with a back to basics series.  You will know by now that I was lucky enough to be taught how to knit, sew and embroider by my mum and my primary school but I realise that not everyone was that lucky so we will do a bit of a crash course to make sure that you will be able to make the things that I come up with for the tutorials.

I am hoping to cover embroidery, knitting, crochet, sewing, quilting, a touch of origami and other papercrafts... but despite the picture above we will not be tackling taxidermy this year!


If you have a topic or a project that you would like covered next year, pop it into comments and I will try to schedule it in.


Now back to your Christmas leftovers everyone :)